Vivianna - The Life Of A Legendary Jewellery Designer
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, 1927-2004 The master silversmith, happiest when using her hands to craft her signature jewellery, pioneered a design language that embodied simple expressiveness and purity of form.
Born in Malmö, Sweden in 1927, Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe graduated from the Academy of Industrial Arts in Stockholm to become Sweden’s first female silversmith to establish her own workshop. Intuitive, disciplined and courageous in her approach to work as well as life, Vivianna worked with uncompromising passion to create compelling jewellery designs deeply rooted in nature. When she later settled in France, Vivianna quickly became known internationally for her innovative and elegant jewellery, and developed a loyal following that included artists that included Billie Holiday, Duke Ellington and Pablo Picasso.
Designing for Georg Jensen from 1967 until her death in 2004, Vivianna’s legacy lives on in her products. Perhaps best known for her iconic and eponymous wristwatch, Vivianna sought to defy time by creating a watch without numbers, with a mirror face – to perpetually show the face of the wearer and serve as a constant reminder of the Here and Now – and an open-ended bangle, symbolising freedom from time. Her jewellery, crafted from polished sterling silver that gently wraps around the female form, is a perfect balance between quintessential form and function, and its bold simplicity has universal appeal.
For almost five decades of design, the innately inquisitive and infinitely creative Vivianna looked to the world around her for inspiration– beach stones, rich in texture and colour, were to Vivianna more precious than diamonds. Her designs referenced infinite movement: With no obvious beginning or end, gently undulating forms and subtle twists and turns seen in the movement of a figure skater’s balanced curves; the trajectory of a bird in ascent; and the sensual contours of the female form manifested themselves in her expressive designs.